From Bordeaux, we crossed the France/Spain border and our first port of call was the fishing village of San Sebastian, a city in the north of the Basque Country.
The city is cozy, compact, safe and full of life! Everything is written in both Spanish and Basque and the locals speak both languages (primarily basque) so lets say that I got around with my “portunhol” (a mix of Portuguese and Spanish language).
It was challenging to get used to the local routine: usually restaurants open for lunch from 1:30pm, shops close between 1:30pm and 4:00pm then re-open until 7:00pm. Dinner starts from 9pm.
But the highlight in SanSe was by far the exquisite food experience:
In the morning we went to the port to watch the fishing boats bringing in their catches for the restaurants.
By lunch time instead of seating and trying dishes from one place, we did what traditionally everyone does in San Sebastian: some pincho walks.
A pincho (or pintxo) is a small portion of a dish, smaller than tapas or raciones, usually served on a slice of bread.
Prices go from 1 to 3€‚¬ each and sometimes it comes for free as a courtesy with every drink. A glass of wine or beer costs on average 2€.
Pinchos are usually consumed standing up and instead of order them, you take whatever you want and let the barman know later.
So we basically went from one eatery to another, trying lots of specialities such as croquetas made of squid ink, prawns or jamon; mini gambas (prawns) skewers with some traditional sauces; bacalao; antipastos such as smoked capsicum, sardines or olives; octupus’ tentacles; Spanish sausages; jamon and the list goes on.
It is impressive how people can come back to work after all of that but it is really fun watching how easy and relaxed everyone is around here, laughing and chatting like if they knew each other for a long time…
So what about the Rioja and Ribeira that I had here from 1.50€ a glass? I really don’t get why the same Spanish wines costs me a fortune back in Australia.
The price of Spanish tapas in Australia are a (really bad) joke too: extremely rip-off !
But this is a topic for another time.
Lourdes, traga me una copa de Ribeira e un pincho de gambas por favor!